Have you considered the ability of your machine to supply all the power needed for these accessories?

Let’s go back to the ’80s with the example of a Honda 200X 3 wheeler. The available electrical power on this vehicle was pretty tight: only 135 watts with the engine revving at full throttle (5,000 rpm).

 The power consumption was not very high as this Quad did not have an electric starter or battery. The current demand consisted of a single 60-watt light mounted on the front suspension fork and a single 5-watt parking light at the rear. There was no electric fuel pump and no fuel injection. In total, 65 watts were used by accessories other than the consumption necessary for the engine’s operation. This type of battery-less vehicle often used an independent power coil for engine operation, so it did not influence the accessories and vice versa. Don’t forget that the advertised 135 watts were at 5,000 rpm. At 2000 rpm, there were a lot fewer watts available. This explained the poor lighting due to the lack of current when the engine was idling. Today, most quads are equipped with a battery and a generator that provides 500 watts and sometimes more. Manufacturers could also replace generators with alternators, which would be more powerful, but would probably be more expensive.

The charging system consists of three groups of three fixed copper wire windings (represented by Y1, Y2, and Y3). Permanent magnets attached to the inside of the flywheel (represented by the circle) rotate around the coils. This movement produces an alternating current (AC), generally 115 volts AC for each group of windings with an engine revving at 5000 rpm. This data may differ slightly from one manufacturer to another.

As all quads operate on 12 volts DC, the output current from the coils must be transformed. Manufacturers use a module that rectifies the alternating current into direct current and regulates it between 13.8 and 14.4 volts. The battery then accumulates this energy.

The battery in your Quad acts as an energy store. When excess current is available, the battery accumulates it. This current is then available when the vehicle’s current demand is higher than that produced by the generator.

An ATV battery can also be recharged using a battery charger with a power of 1.8 to 2 amps / hour for 5 to 10 hours. Too much charging power may overcharge the battery and destroy it.

Here are some technical data with the engine stopped. A battery voltage is:

• 12.8 volts when 100% charged
• 12.5 volts is 75% charged
• 12.0 volts is 50% charged
• 11.5 volts is 25% charged

Imagine a ride with several accessories and lots of winch use with the engine idling frequently. It is possible that your battery will be below 12 volts and cannot even start your Quad after a stop.

Did you know?

The current required for a cold start below -15 degrees Celsius will mean a minimum of 30 minutes of sustained high rev use to recharge the battery.

Let’s look at some basics of electricity. Often the advertised units of measure differ from one accessory to another. These measurements are mostly from watts to amps. To perform calculations that make sense, it is best to convert to a single unit of measurement. If you want to convert the measurement of watts in amperes, here is the formula: “Watts divided by volts = number of amps.” So, for example, 500 watts divided by 13.8 volts = 36 amps. Remember that the 500 watts measured on most quads are with the engine revving at 6000 rpm. W / V = ​​Amp.

After giving it a test, I found that the engine at idle only delivers a meager 125 watts, so 7.2 amps. It’s very little, however as the engine revs increase, the available watts (and amps) add up quickly.

I measured the consumption of a few accessories on my Quad using a multimeter. These measurements will serve as a reference in your calculations.

Here are the measurements obtained:

These accessories mean a total of 22.68 amps when fully in use. This power adds to the engine’s power consumption (EFI, motor control modules, and battery recharging). We can see that this Quad will be using near its maximum available current if all the accessories are at their full use when the engine spins between 3,500 and 4,000 rpm.

Let’s not forget the winch

More than often, comparing an ATV winches looks like a testosterone showdown like “mine is bigger than yours.”

It is generally believed that the bigger it is, the better it is (I’m talking about the winch here!). This is not entirely true. A high-power winch will also require a very high current source. Many quads do not have this capability. The bottom line is that a 4,000-pound winch that operates with an insufficient power source will pull the equivalent of a 2,500 or 3,000-pound winch adequately powered. Be aware of this fact when purchasing a winch.

Finally

Although a large number of electrical accessories can enhance our quad outings, their performance must be optimal. Accessories that are under-supplied with current will systematically perform poorly and undermine their user-friendliness. So, for adequate performance, do not exceed the capacity of your Quad.

The post Your Quad charging system appeared first on UTV Planet Magazine.

Enthusiasts have the possibility of upgrading their CV joints with superior quality parts, thanks to the Rhino brand axles that raise the established standards to the supreme level. They’re made from heavy-duty 4340 Chromoly steel, one of the most robust materials in the industry. With an excellent strength-to-weight ratio, these axles are built for extreme conditions. They exceed the highest expectations and deliver performance not found in OEM or aftermarket axles. Every CV joint kit is specifically designed for ultimate strength and protected by a puncture-resistant TPE (thermoplastic polyester elastomer) boot. Rhino brand axles leave no stone unturned: synthetic grease is used to lubricate and keep them cool whenever they need to be put to the test. Each axle is precision-engineered to provide the ultimate balance of strength and durability.

Whether used with oversized tires, a set of tracks, over rough terrain, or with an impressive amount of horsepower, they are built to withstand the harshest conditions. Their articulation angle is greater compared to OEM equipment. This feature, combined with a suspension lift kit, also proves to be the perfect match for tackling obstacles and muddy holes.

Replacing a CV joint with a higher quality axle can be done in a very short time with just a few tools. You should plan 30 to 45 minutes to complete this task. Here are the steps:

Replacement of a rear CV joint / axle shaft of a CFMOTO ZFORCE:

1- Lift the vehicle

Secure your vehicle on a level surface and raise it with a hydraulic jack. Consult your vehicle owner’s manual to find the correct place to jack your machine, and be sure to place the jack under the frame.

Double-check that the vehicle is in P mode and that the parking brake is applied before lifting. Then you will need to remove the wheel.

2- Remove the cotter pin from the axle nut

 If your vehicle has a cotter pin securing the axle nut, you will need to remove it. The pin looks like a bobby pin with both ends folded back to hold it in place. You will need to use pliers to straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin before you can remove it. If the pin is stuck, try spraying it with a penetrating lubricant. The lubricant should also help with the removal of the axle nut.

3- Remove the axle nut

Once the pin is released, you can remove the axle nut. It sometimes takes a lot of torque to remove it. For this reason, the use of an impact wrench is recommended to perform this operation. In the event that your CV joint is broken, seek the assistance of a partner to apply the brakes while you complete this step.

4- Release the stabilizer bar

The two links of the stabilizer bar must be unbolted to allow the release of the upper A-arm in the following steps.

5- Remove the wheel shaft support

The upper and lower bolts must be removed at this stage, as it will be possible to extract the axle by removing the support, the wheel hub, and the brake rotor.

6- Release the upper A-arm

The use of a bungee cord is recommended; it will help secure and release the upper A-arm so that you can have the space needed to complete the next steps.

7- Remove the axle

First, remove the CV joint end from the shaft support and the wheel hub. While ensuring the axle is horizontal, push and twist it slightly towards the differential. You will feel slack, and then you can proceed with its removal. It is normal for transmission fluid to leak when you remove the axle. Have a suitable container handy.

8-Insert the new axle into the differential

At the end of the axle you will find a small C-clip: it holds the axle in the differential. To facilitate insertion, we recommend the addition of grease that will keep the C-clip well in place. Doing the reverse of the removal step, now insert the new axle at the exact location in the differential. Its tip will slide all the way until the axle is flush with the housing.

9- Reinsert the axle into the support and the wheel hub

The new axle will need to be reinserted in the center of the hub assembly at the same location where you removed the old axle. Ensure the axle end is seated correctly on the surface of the differential and verify that the C-clip is engaged by testing its strength by lightly pulling the axle.

10- Assemble the upper and lower A-arms

Reinstall the A-arms to the wheel axle support using the bolts previously removed.

11- Install the axle nut

Reinsert the nut and use your hand for a few turns. Then use the impact wrench to tighten it.

12- Add the cotter pin

The old cotter pin can be fragile, so you should replace it with a new one rather than reuse the old one. Insert the pin, and using a flathead screwdriver, pry the end off. Complete the separation of the end of the pin using pliers.

13- Install the wheel

At this point, you can put the wheel back on the vehicle (the same way you would when changing a tire). Once the wheel is in place, you can lower the machine.

Note: These steps may differ from vehicle to vehicle. When replacing a CV joint of a front wheel, the difference is at the point of attachment of the wheel axle support: disassemble the ball joints and the tie-rod.

Rhino CV joints and axles are designed so you can tackle obstacles and muddy holes with confidence. They also have the advantage of having a one-year replacement warranty. So, get to your tools, and take advantage of heavy-duty CV joints that will match your most challenging rides!

The post SUPERATV Rhino CV joints appeared first on UTV Planet Magazine.

Let’s find out a little more

What are the roles of the air filter? Yes, the filter does a lot more than filtering the air !!!

The air filter is mounted inside your engine’s air intake; its primary function is to retain particles suspended in the air.

Another role of the filter, combined with the airbox, is to muffle the sound of air rushing into the engine. This purring sound may be melodious to some but irritating to others. Replacing the original filter for a performance one or modifying the filter housing will often make this noise more noticeable.

Finally, the filter also acts as a backfire barrier. Today, most quads are fuel-injected, and backfires are very uncommon. However, this is still possible with a carbureted machine where too much choke could easily produce one.

That being said, we will mainly delve into the filtering function. We cannot ignore that the operating environment is often very arid and filled with dust, mud, snow, water, and other stuff found in nature. It should not be overlooked that the filter housing works hand in hand with the filter.

Let’s follow the airflow

The filter housing will capture the air in the least dusty and uppermost place on the ATV, often near the handlebars, to get a minimum of water and dust. The box will also control air turbulence to let it enter more evenly into the engine and improve performance. The airbox then continues its job by deflecting water and larger particles in the bottom while avoiding contaminating the filter. The accumulated water will come out of the airbox through an orifice that lets it pass to the outside. Larger particles will remain trapped there. From now on, the filter completes the air cleaning process by retaining fine particles.

Let’s not forget the most important

Contaminant intrusion into an engine can have severe consequences. Dust must never pass on the motor side of the filter.

In the case of an injection quad, the first drawback of contaminated air will be the clogging of the various sensors in the air intake. They are used to calibrate the perfect amount of gasoline to inject and must be kept clean to be as precise and efficient as possible.

The second drawback is very significant: the abrasive effect of dust on the engine’s internal components. The damage is irreversible and will result in substantial and costly engine repairs. This could result in poor performance and overconsumption of oil, going as far as the destruction of the engine.

Now let’s move on to the workshop

In the quad industry, manufacturers mainly use two types of air filters: one made of paper similar to those used in the automotive industry, and the second type made of foam. We can also find a mixture of the two styles combined, filter paper covered with oiled foam. The maintenance is very different between these two types of filters, but their performance is generally 97%, or 6 microns, provided it is well maintained.

First, let’s look at the paper filter

This filter is maintenance-free; it should be thrown away and replaced with a new one when it is too dirty. In some quad models, it is covered with a pre-filter which requires relatively simple periodic maintenance. Its function is to block the largest impurities.

Checking the condition of the paper filter is all about removing it from its housing and passing light from the inside to the outside using a mechanic’s portable lamp. If the filter is damaged, as minimal as it may seem, it must be replaced. If possible, compare it with a new one, and you will quickly confirm its condition. You can also tap it lightly on a flat surface and see how much dust it will leave there. If in doubt, replace it anyways. You will never replace a filter too often.

NEVER blow the filter with compressed air; the result will be more damage than anything else. The air pressure will transform the surface of the filter by modifying the positioning of the paper fibers. The filtration efficiency will be reduced as the size of the paper cells will be enlarged. 

If equipped with one, the pre-filter needs to be cleaned with soapy water, thoroughly rinsed, and air-dried. This maintenance should be done very often. The manufacturers suggest doing this on every ride.

Second, the foam filters

There are several configurations of foam filters, but their maintenance is generally similar. There are single foam and double foam filters.

Here we see an original single foam filter that can be removed from its support to facilitate maintenance. In this photo, we can see that it’s self-evident it needs to be cleaned.

This UNI filter is double foam type. The outer foam acts as a pre-filter, and its density is lower. The pre-filter can be removed from the assembly. The filter itself does not separate from its support which slightly complicates the maintenance.

Now is the time to work on it

Access your filter by removing the air filter housing cover. The owner’s manual will show you how to get access to it. You will see the filter there in the airbox; notice the dirt at the bottom of the case. There is water, dust, oil, and a bit of everything. Don’t worry if you see a small amount of engine oil in there. It is the crankcase ventilation that breathes in through the filter housing and sometimes leaves oil there.

Remove the air filter, taking care not to let any dirt enter the engine air intake. With the filter removed, inspect the intake pipe for dust accumulation. If you find dust there, look for the source of the infiltration and fix the problem without delay.

To clean the filter housing, remove the drain plug at the bottom. Let it drain and clean the inside. For my part, I use brake parts cleaner and a rag. It’s very effective.

To wash your filter, I strongly advise against using gasoline. It is preferable to use a non-flammable solvent or a product with a high flash point (e.g., kerosene). A product specially designed for this job is more efficient, safer, cheaper, and smells better.

It’s bath time

Separate the filter from its holder, if applicable. Soak the filter in the cleaner, work it in with your hands and let it sit for a few minutes.

Rinse the filter in hot soapy water. Drain it, but don’t wring it out. The twist will ruin it. Repeat the rinse with clear hot water and drain.

Sponge the filter several times with a paper towel and allow it to completely dry. It must be dried well for the next step; otherwise, the water remaining in the filter will push back the filter oil.

Once the filter is dry, it’s time to oil it. For my part, when I have a filter without its holder, I use a Ziploc bag and insert the filter in it. I pour in about one once of foam filter oil and close the bag. I massage the filter to get the oil in evenly. Colored oil helps confirm even application.

In the case of a filter that does not separate from its holder, I use a quantity of foam oil that I spread in my hands and then massage the filter. The amount of one once is usually good. If you have a foam pre-filter, oil it the same way with a Ziploc. Drain it to remove any excess oil. The uniform color confirms the correct application.

In the case of a filter that attaches to the filter housing with a collar, it is essential to clean the mounting flange. An oily flange could slip and disconnect from the case. The filter would then end up in the bottom of the airbox and be of no use.

When the filter is wedged between the cover and the airbox, it is advisable to apply grease on the points of contact of the filter. The grease will ensure a tight connection: it fills the small gaps and traps the dust that may infiltrate there.

Conclusion

The choice of air filtration is very personal. A paper filter is a simple maintenance item, but some people find it expensive. The oil filter is easier to check for contamination. The paper one will get dirty on the first ride and will not change color after that. The contact surface of the paper filter in its housing should be carefully greased to prevent the ingress of dust; this is a weak point. For all of these reasons, I prefer oil models, despite the extra maintenance they require.

The post Maintaining your ATV’s engine air filtration system appeared first on UTV Planet Magazine.

Whether it is smoke, burnt oil smell from the exhaust, unusual noises, or poor engine performance, all these can come from a defective engine. In the event of noise or loss of power, you may have to dig a little deeper. A poorly functioning clutch can distort your diagnosis by producing irregular noises and low performance. Now, if you are sure the source of your troubles comes from the engine, let’s get a closer look at it.

Wait before disassembling your engine into piece parts!

Too often, resourceful ATV riders sacrifice their machine for the science of learning by trial and error. Once the engine is spread out in multiple pieces on the workbench, the mechanic finds himself in a very uncomfortable position where he can’t determine anything that shows an apparent defect. It is at this very moment that he understands his mistake. Then begins the fun of measuring and inspecting all the parts. At this stage, it is not always easy to determine whether or not one specific part is the problem. After trying everything, the apprentice mechanic packs all the parts in a box. Then the poor man walks into a mechanic shop, hoping that the technician there will instantly point his finger at the part that is the cause of all his problems. In reality, the mechanic will probably look at you with wide contemptuous eyes and give a sigh that will tell you a lot. Finally, he will more than likely replace any parts that show minor wear, and the repair bill will be unnecessarily expensive.

This whole misfortune could have turned out quite differently. A simple compression test paired with an engine cylinder leak check would have changed everything. With well-mastered diagnostic techniques, you can save a lot of time and money. It is possible to know whether the engine is really at fault and pinpoints the origin of the defect even before you disassemble the motor. All this can be done simply through the spark plug hole.

What you need:

• Spark plug socket and socket set
• Engine compression gauge
• Cylinder leak tester
• Compressed air available at over 100 psi.

Static compression test

We will use a compression gauge specially designed for this job. This tool measures the maximum pressure obtained in the cylinder at the top of its stroke. First, find the compression specification from the engine manufacturer. Ensure the battery is fully charged. Remove the spark plugs. Ground the spark plug wires to avoid damaging the ignition circuit. Turn off the injection system to prevent flooding the engine cylinder with gasoline. Install the compression gauge in place of the spark plug. Keep the throttle wide open to allow the engine to breathe well. Crank the engine over with the starter and count five compression strokes. Note the reading on the compression gauge.

Interpretation of the measurements

If the engine compression is 70 KPA / 10 PSI over the specification, here are the possible causes:

• The engine may have had performance modifications
• Some carbon has buildup in the combustion chamber
• The distribution chain that is not synchronized correctly

If engine compression is below specification:

Pour a small amount of engine oil through the spark plug hole (about one teaspoon). Crank the engine a few revolutions to distribute the oil evenly throughout the cylinder. Measure the compression once again using the same number of compression cycles as above.

If the reading has significantly increased, then the loss of compression is due to worn piston rings or a problem with the cylinder wall.

If the compression remains about the same, then the compression leak may be due to defective valves or a piston damaged to the point that it can not be sealed with the additional oil. In the case of an engine with parallel cylinders and which reads low compression on both cylinders, the head gasket may be the source. It can also indicate a problem with the valve timing. Before you condemn the entire engine, check them.

In this example, I used a 2006 Honda TRX 90.

The manufacturer’s cylinder compression specification is 178 PSI. The reading obtained on the gauge is between 175 and 180 PSI, so we assume no problem so far. This compression test is easy to perform; however, it lacks precision.

Cylinder leak detector

Leak down test

The tool used for this test consists of 2 manometers: the first gauge indicates the pressure injected in the cylinder, and the second measures the remaining pressure. Some tools are available with only one manometer, but I do not recommend them.

The cylinder leak-down test is the ultimate compression test. After the static compression test indicated a problem, this test should be used to isolate the cause. Sometimes the compression test won’t tell much. Performing the cylinder leak test is very revealing.

To conduct a cylinder leak test, you will need the Cylinder Leak Detector tool, which usually contains the necessary adapters for different spark plug threads. A source of compressed air of at least 100 PSI is required.

How to set it up

You will have to position the engine piston at Top Dead Center (TDC). This means the piston is placed at the top of the cylinder at the end of the compression cycle. You can use a soft pin through the spark plug hole until you touch the top of the piston. Turn the engine crankshaft by hand until the piston is at its highest. Ensure you are at the compression cycle otherwise the valves will be open, resulting in a massive leak. You can also confirm the engine position by observing the T mark on the flywheel. Align the T with the mark on the engine block. Most of the time, you can easily access it by removing a plug. To manually rotate the engine, another cap on the side of the motor provides access to the flywheel bolt.

Now, all you have to do is put the test tool in place of the spark plug. When compressed air is applied, the piston must remain at Top Dead Center for the whole duration of the test. If the piston moves, repeat its positioning; the measurement obtained if it moved is not good. A piston perfectly positioned at Top Dead Center will not move. Do not leave any tool attached to the flywheel. The pressure exerted on the piston during the leakage test could cause the engine to rotate and project the tool. Connect the compressed air supply to the tester.

Adjust the first pressure gauge to 100 PSI. The reading of the second pressure gauge is the residual pressure in the engine cylinder. Make the difference between these two measurements: this will provide the percentage of leakage. For example, the first manometer reads 100 PSI, and the second is at 98 PSI. 100 – 98 = 2. Leakage is 2%.

Interpretation of the result

• First thing first, a result of 0% is impossible.
• 0% to 5%: the engine is in excellent condition.
• 6% to 15%: the engine is in good condition. Normal condition.
• 16% to 25%: the engine shows wear and is in poor condition.
• More than 25%: the engine is in very poor condition.

If the measured leakage is significant:

A high percentage of cylinder leak is a sign of an internal engine problem. From now on, it is possible to locate with precision the motor section that contributes to this result. While leaving the air pressure applied in the test cylinder, a series of small observations can be carried out.

• Unscrew the radiator cap; bubbles escaping from the coolant indicate a cylinder head gasket leak, a crack in the cylinder head, or the engine block.

• If you hear air coming out of the intake system (throttle body), this indicates a leak in the intake valves. Inspect the valve clearance. If nothing has changed after the valve clearance adjustment, that means the leak comes from the valve itself or the valve seat. Beware of the crankcase ventilation tube (PVC valve) connected to the air filter and intake housing. We suggest plugging them for this step and the following ones.

• If air is leaking from the exhaust pipe, it indicates a leak through an exhaust valve. Again, adjustment of the valve clearance is necessary. If the situation remains the same, suspect the valve or its seat.

• If air is coming out of the oil filler cap or dipstick tube, it indicates a leak caused by worn piston rings or cylinder walls. However, it is normal to have small leaks from the piston rings.

• In the case of a twin-cylinder engine, if air escapes from an adjacent spark plug hole, it may indicate a blown head gasket.

Some symptoms are obvious. An engine that throws out a very smelly blue smoke indeed confirms that the piston rings or valve stems are worn out. With other symptoms, it is more challenging to make an accurate diagnosis. With these simple tests performed only from the spark plug hole, the diagnostic accuracy is impressive. And with a little more experience, you can even speculate the repair costs without disassembling the engine.

Finally, if the test results are per the manufacturer’s specifications, you will probably have to look at something other than the engine. Sometimes we jump too quickly to the worst conclusion.

The post When you no longer trust your engine appeared first on UTV Planet Magazine.

First, determine your needs. You have probably traveled several kilometers with your UTV already, so you can gather information from your experience. Your riding style, the type of terrain you ride the most, the type of work performed with your machine, and the purpose for which your UTV is designed should all be taken into consideration.

Your driving style

A rider who tends to ride at high speed will need a tire with a more rigid carcass, a less aggressive tread pattern, and ideally a lower profile tire. These characteristics will help to maintain good stability at high speed. If, on the other hand, using your UTV is all about circling around the cottage and hauling a few logs in a small trailer, a smooth tire tread will protect the terrain from the frequent passage of the machine. A tire with a less rigid structure will be sufficient for the task and the price of this type of tire will certainly be lower.

Your UTV playgrounds

The type of terrain on which you use your UTV the most is very decisive in your choice of tires:

Sandy terrain – If you primarily use your UTV in the sand, a very aggressive tire or a paddle tire will propel the machine efficiently. This type of tire usually has a flexible structure and is very efficient in the sand. On the other hand, it offers little resistance to punctures.

Deep mud – In recent years, deep mud UTV riding has become more and more popular. Many manufacturers took this opportunity to demonstrate their know-how and created mud monsters specifically adapted to these conditions. The tire choice should be carefully directed towards something extremely aggressive and stiff. These tires will have excellent traction in mud, but it will be the opposite on hardpack terrain. As for the structure, it is very stiff and puncture resistant. However, it provides a very rough ride and doesn’t absorb trail defects very well; your back will quickly let you know.

All-purpose / All-terrain tire – Most UTV riders will opt for this type of tire. It is aggressive enough not to get bogged down easily, but not too aggressive in order to provide a smooth ride. It will also be of great importance that it be puncture resistant, especially in rocky terrain. Finally, a flexible structure that is comfortable to ride should not be neglected. We all know the very popular Maxxis Bighorn. It is a good example of a decent performance tire in most situations, as it is aggressive enough to get you out of a muddy hole without ruining the ride comfort of your machine.

The internal composition of a tire

Beyond the tire tread pattern, there is a design and construction layout. For this reason, it is necessary to understand what is written on the side of the tire. That will tell you the number of plies that compose it, the type of carcass (radial or bias), and its dimensions.

The plies

Under the tread hides the structure of the tire which is made of a braiding of cotton or polyester cord. Each row of braiding constitutes a ply. The number of plies is a puncture resistance grade and also a tire load grade. This information can be found on the sides of the tire. The number of plies is usually between two and eight. However, the more plies the tire has, the heavier and the more rigid it will be. So the ride comfort is directly influenced by the number of plies. This is true for the “bias” type of carcass.

The bias-ply tire

The bias type is a design that has been there for decades. The tire bears the name “ bias ” from the cord layers in the internal structure that are oriented at an angle from one bead of the tire through the other bead. The tire has the same number of plies throughout its construction.

The radial tire

We recognize the radial construction tire by the “ R ” that is added to the dimension of the tire inscribed on the sides. In the following example 28X10R14 the R means radial construction. The internal construction of this tire has two layers. The first layer, similar to the bias tire, is oriented perpendicular to the direction of the tire rotation. This layer will make the sidewall of the tire and the first layer of the tread. The perpendicular orientation will provide greater flexion on the sides of the tire for increased ride comfort. The biggest construction difference between the radial tire compared to the bias tire is mainly at the second phase of tire manufacturing. The carcass design of the tread is composed of layers laid radially that are reinforced either of steel, polyester, or carbon fibers. This design allows a tire to be built with a flat profile, provides a tread that is puncture resistant, offers reduced rolling resistance, a better footprint, and also greater wear durability. All of these while maintaining a comfortable ride.

Tire size

The tire dimensions are always stamped on the sidewalls of the tire. It is important to keep the same dimension ratio between those fitted on the front and the rear of your UTV, especially if your machine is a four-wheel drive. Otherwise, the constant tension in the powertrain could cause considerable mechanical failures.

Understanding the size of a tire

In our example 28X10R14, the first number denotes the tire diameter in the imperial unit of measurement, 28 inches in this case. The second number determines the tread width, 10 inches for that tire. The letter R indicates that the tire is of radial design; the same bias-designed tire would have the inscription 28X10-14. Finally, the last number 14 specifies the diameter of the rim in inches.

Winter use

For those who use their UTV in the winter season, it is important to consider a tire that is adapted to the cold temperatures. Winter tires are made from a rubber that remains softer and more flexible in the cold, which improves traction. The CST Stag is one good winter tire that we tested. It is also possible to purchase studded tires which greatly improve traction on ice.

The important thing is to always find the right balance between performance and reliability. In the vast majority of cases, the radial tire will be your best choice. As for the number of plies, you will have to make a compromise between comfort and durability. Now all you need to do is determine your needs.

The post How to choose your UTV tires appeared first on UTV Planet Magazine.

In recent years, new components have appeared on the exhaust systems of some manufacturers. We notice a newcomer in the family of sensors, it is attached to the exhaust manifold. What is it? It’s the oxygen sensor, which often comes with a catalytic converter.

The design of the oxygen sensor

The oxygen sensor, also called O2 probe, is used to measure the oxygen content of the exhaust fumes. The reactive substance of this probe is made of ceramic, zirconium dioxide, and platinum zirconia plating. This mixture will react to the difference of oxygen between its surfaces. This reaction produces a low voltage of 0 to 1 volt that is being interpreted by the Engine Control Unit (ECU). The oxygen sensor design allows it to expose one side of its analysis substance to the exhaust gas and the other to the outside air. A rich air / fuel mixture will produce a voltage greater than 0.5 volts and a lean mixture will result in a measurement below 0.4 volts.

To be functional, the sensor must reach a temperature between 300 and 600 degrees Celsius (572-1112 F). In some cases, a heating element inside the probe is used to allow faster heating. However, the probe still has a big drawback: while the ECU can interpret the reading of the air / fuel mixture, namely, whether it is rich or lean, it is not possible to know at what level the mixture error occurs.

There is a much more precise sensor for this purpose: the probe “air fuel ratio” (A / F ratio) or wideband. Unfortunately, it is not largely used on ATVs nor UTVs. It is occasionally found on highly modified ATVs or other more refined motorized systems. The A / F ratio sensor has the advantage of reacting very quickly and will precisely measure at which level the mixture is rich or lean. Therefore, the fuel mapping correction will be more precise. Visually, the A /F sensor looks identical to an oxygen sensor, but its operation is very different.

Injection without oxygen probe

Engines operating without an oxygen sensor adjust the air / fuel mixture from a fixed mapping. The engine module does the mixing a bit like your grandma who makes a good recipe with measurements to the eye, but without ever tasting it. It works every time, however, the result will be different from one time to another. So according to the intake depression, the air temperature, the coolant temperature, the throttle position, and the engine speed, the amount of fuel to be injected is chosen. The ECU module injects fuel with no regard for the given result. This is called the “open loop” engine management principle. The engine module performs an action and no return on the result. The loop remains open.

Engine operation with an oxygen sensor

The oxygen sensor is used to check the result of the air / fuel mixture after combustion. Engine modules that use an exhaust-mounted oxygen sensor have adaptive rather than fixed mapping. That is, the engine module has a form of artificial intelligence. It also stores in its memory, even after stopping the engine, the mapping adjustments of the last time of operation and uses them at the next start of the engine. In addition, this adaptive memory is very useful for compensating the wear of some engine parts that can influence the combustion of the mixture. This allows the engine to work well despite a slight defect.

When the engine is cold and running, the injection will work in the same way as an engine without an oxygen sensor, i.e. in “open loop” mode. Once the engine warms up, the sensor will begin to generate a signal depending on the amount of oxygen present in the exhaust. From that moment, the engine control module uses this data as a result of the air / fuel mixture equation. Then, the module increases or decreases the fuel injection of its basic mapping. It is for this reason that the module memory is called adaptive and the engine management principle is called “closed loop”. It injects, measures the result and corrects the next fuel injection. This injection management greatly increases the accuracy and maintenance of the best possible stoichiometric ratio (air / fuel ratio).

The catalytic converter

The catalytic converter has no positive effect on the performance of your engine. Its mission is only environmental. It is made of ceramic, platinum, palladium and many other elements. We guess from its composition that this piece of equipment is worth its weight of gold and with reason. Its main purpose is to produce a first reaction that reduces harmful nitrogen oxides to nitrogen and carbon dioxide, a second oxidation reaction to convert deadly carbon monoxides to carbon dioxide, and a final oxidation reaction of unburned hydrocarbons (HC) to convert them to carbon dioxide and water. Basically, it acts as an incinerator.

As for the modifications of your ATV’s exhaust system, there is a real complication. If a modification causes the engine module to deflect its adaptive memory beyond the acceptable pre-defined ranges made by the manufacturer, the check engine light will come on and a fault code will be issued. In addition, the catalytic converter has a limited capacity to burn hydrocarbons (HC). If an engine modification significantly increases the rate of HC in the exhaust, the combustion of these large quantities of HC inside the catalytic converter will produce a huge amount of heat and its internal temperature will rise up to a point of melting the inside of the converter catalytic.

Inside view of a catalytic converter

Although these technological changes have no effect on the way you use your ATV, it should be noted that the oxygen sensor offers the possibility of making your engine run more economically. It is not uncommon today to see a big engine that shows fuel consumption similar to older mid-size engine. It is the result of a technological advance put at our service.

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